Creatively Yours, Phoebe Philo

Dress from Spring Resort Debut

As the new creative director of Céline, the fashion world was at a stand-still  awaiting Philo’s latest collection. Philo’s debut at a her new label certainly did not disappoint in Spring of ’09. Backed by a luxury colossus, LVMH,this particular designer is the fashion superstar who made Chloé one of the hottest labels of the early 2000s following Stella McCarthy. “There’s this incredible mystique about Phoebe,” says Lisa Armstrong, fashion editor of The Times of London. “She’s this cool London girl who always did the right thing at the right time at Chloé and walked away from it at the absolute height. Everyone talked about her first Céline show as if it was the second coming. The atmosphere in that room was electric. We were all waiting to see what she would do.”

Sleek shapes with a palette of  white, black, camel, navy, nude and khaki also echoed of Céline’s heritage as an accessories house in the leather T-shirts and trims. The flatteringly fluid silhouettes that her Chloé fans loved were there in the high-waisted, wide-legged pants.The collections  had a feeling of “easy cool”  that Philo is so great at capturing.

“It feels like a bit of calmness and cleanliness are what’s needed in fashion now. What we’re doing at Céline is crisper and more structured than at Chloé, but that’s very much about where my taste is now. We’ve kept everything quite clean and quite fluid, with a very simple color card. I’m very much into staple pieces, but with a twist — something that feels of the moment.”- Philo

Pre-Fall Collection

Pre-Fall Collection

Pre-Fall Collection

Pre-Fall Collection

Celine Fall 2010

Celine Fall 2010

Celine Fall 2010

Celine Fall 2010

More about Phoebe Philo

Phoebe PhiloShe studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins College in London, where she was drawn to mid-1990s minimalists like Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. “I was experimental at college, but in my own funny little way,” she recalls. “I’ve always been attracted to the wilder things, but not when it comes to my own work. I’ve always had a sense that if I can’t wear it, what’s the point?”

After graduating, she hung out in London for a few months, helping her Saint Martins friend Stella McCartney with her first collection. When McCartney was made creative director of Chloé in Paris, taking over from Karl Lagerfeld (who wasn’t pleased to be succeeded by someone a few years out of fashion school), she asked Philo to go with her. “We were very young and it was fun, but there was a lot of work to be done,” she recalls. “There was lots of pressure, though for sure that was more on Stella.”When McCartney left Chloé to create her own label in 2001, Philo stayed on as creative director until she decided to step away  to be with her family. Fast- forward three years,LVMH came calling and Philo felt ready to return to fashion.Philo started work at Céline in the middle of 2008 and devoted the first year to rebuilding the business by opening a design studio in a derelict Georgian town house on Cavendish Square in London, hiring a new design team (some of whom came from Chloé) and rethinking the company’s branding, marketing and stores.

ny times

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